De Vescovi Ulzbach
The de Vescovi family has roots in Trentino that date back to the late 1600s. When they settled near the mouth of the Noce River they began cultivating Teroldego vines and began the de Vescovi winemaking legacy. For more than 30 years at the start of the 20th century they made and sold their own estate wines but following WWII they moved to the co-op model of selling bulk grapes. Giulio de Vescovi took the reins of the estate in 2003, after receiving his degree in Viticulture and Enology from the Istituto San Michele all’Adige, releasing his first vintage in 2005. This was a project cultivated since adolescence and pursued with serious studies and work experience in Italy and abroad. Giulio is deeply committed to carrying on his family’s legacy and learning the land they originally settled on. His ambition and commitment to carrying on his family tradition come through in his winemaking. Unfiltered Vigiulus is an example to the region for depth and potential. Of the estate’s seven hectares of native Teroldego vineyards, five are 50-year-old Pergola Trentina vines that Giulio has invested years to transitioning over to Guyot without affecting the vines. It is an incredible process to watch, seeing respect for old vines being transitioned to a quality driven training system. Two additional hectares within the vineyard are more recently planted Guyot-trained vines from 1995.
Giulio and I had our first meeting over grilled sausages and freshly brewed beer next to the train station in Teroldego. It was a great way to meet him, and better understand his approach to wine. He then took me to the 200 year old house where his family has left him in charge of farming, winemaking, and sales. The style of wine reflects Giulio's personality... generous, wild, and somehow elegant in their honesty. I was drawn to the region as well. At the time there were no more than 14 producers of Teroldego with the Foradori wines being the most widely recognized in the region for quality. We tasted through all of the available wines from the region at dinner one evening... and there was a clear division in quality from those with a vision for the future and those still wandering the path of quantity over quality.